So you’ve been on the hunt for the perfect used car that covers all of your wants and needs, and have finally found exactly what you have been looking for. But before pulling the trigger and committing your hard earned money to the purchase, you know that it would be wise to run a full inspection on the vehicle to ensure you won’t incur any problems in the near future. If you are unable to enlist the help of your local mechanic, you may be on your own to perform the inspection.
From my personal experience with multiple used car purchases over the years and extensive research including interviews with general managers at used car dealerships, I have come up with a checklist of the “10 things to inspect” before buying a used car, which will ensure that you don’t get blindsided by an unexpected problem that could have been avoided in the first place.
1. Check the Tires
In my research I found that one of the most common and costly mistakes that used car buyers make is to forget to check the condition of the tires. With the average cost to replace a set of four tires being around $637, this mistake could really hurt your wallet if not performed correctly. There are a few things you should be looking for when it comes to inspecting the tires, with the main areas being: tread, air pressure, matching brand and size, and manufacture date.
An uneven tread wear could point to a larger issue of suspension, alignment, steering, or possibly frame damage. Extreme wear on the outside sidewall can point towards aggressive driving which may be an indicator of other potential problems that the previous driver may have incurred. If you notice more wear in the center, they have most likely been regularly over-inflated. On the other hand, if there is more wear on the outer edges, it’s feasible that they have been driven under-inflated. The tread and air pressure can tell a lot about the history of the tires and it is vital that you try to understand their story.
In a phone interview with a general manager at a used car lot in San Diego he stated that a seller should replace any tires that are at least five years old. Also, that one can find out the manufacture date of the tires by reading the four-digit number printed on the sidewall of each tire. For example, if the number is 2214, it signifies that the tire was manufactured in the 22nd week of 2014, which gives you an idea of when the tires will need to be replaced. Along with the manufacture date, you will also want to read the specifications of the model and size to ensure all four tires are the same. Any discrepancies here should automatically raise a red flag.
2. Scrutinize the exterior of car for any repairs in the paint or body
Get out your magnifying glass and pour over the body of the car to scrutinize the paintjob and bodywork. Any signs of previous damage or repairs should be expressed up front by the seller and if they are trying to conceal this information, you may need to look elsewhere.
Small scratches and dents aren’t necessarily deal breakers, but any major repair to the body may be cause for concern. After a thorough inspection of the body where you find that there are only a few minor dings, you may be able to use these points to negotiate down the list price because of the extra time and money that will be required to fix them.
3. Get up and take a peek at the roof
What may seem like an irrelevant task, can actually be quite important. Many used car buyers forget to climb up and take a peek at the exterior roof. Any signs of rust, dents, or other damage may lead to future leaks which can be a major headache. This simple, yet often forgotten task, will be well worth the one minute it takes to properly perform.
4. Slide under the car to see if any major damage or repair work exists
Be sure that the car is secure before sliding underneath it to check for any existing or repaired damage. A sure sign of repair work is clear welding marks. Also, be vigilant of any black spots on the exhaust system, which could suggest a leak. A slick grime may be the tell-tale signs of a prevalent problem.
While you are underneath the car, don’t forget to also check for frame or unibody deterioration. Any signs of current or previous damage is a clear-cut sign to move on. At the end of the day, there is nothing more important than your safety and well-being, and any structural damage will put that in jeopardy.
5. Get under the hood
By far the most important step to thoroughly perform is to get under the hood to assure that the car is in good operating condition. Begin by checking the hoses and belts for any cracks, which should be non-existent. Also, be sure that the radiator hose is not soft.
From there, move on to the engine to check for any leaks or corrosion. Any traces of dark brown oil stains will tell you that there is a gasket leak and a potential costly repair looming. Be sure to remove the oil filler cap to check for any foam residue, which would also indicated a leak in the head gasket. As well, the brake fluid supply shouldn’t show any signs of leaks.
While the engine is running, pull out the transmission dipstick to check the color, which should be red or pink. It’s possible that if it is an old car that it may be darker, but at least it should not have a burnt odor or appearance. And finally, insect the most important and costly belt in the engine, the timing belt. These need to be replaced every 60-100+ thousand miles, depending on the manufacturer.
6. Look for signs of flood damage
Although a car may seem to run fine and look good, hidden problems can appear out of nowhere at a later date. One of these common surprises that can end up costing you is flood damage. Not all sellers are upfront about previous water damage, so it’s up to you to look for the obvious clues.
Pop open the trunk and pull up the carpet lining to see if there are any signs of flood damage due to holes or cracks. The last thing you want is a leaky trunk. The easiest way to find this out is if you notice there is any presence of water or rust. The trunk should be clean and clear of any water damage. You can also do the same on the inside of the car by inspecting the floorboards underneath the rugs and carpet lining.
7. Review the seats and upholstery for wear and tear
You will be spending the majority of your time inside the car, so of course you would want to make sure you are comfortable and content with the seats and the lining throughout the car. Not only will you want seats that you feel comfortable in, but also for both your passenger and rear guests. Take the time to not only inspect the condition of the seats, but also be sure to check that all the adjustments are in proper working condition.
8. Test the heating and cooling system
While the car is on and running, flip the temperature controls to both extremes and turn up power to test both the heating and cooling. Depending on where you live, both will come in handy, and you won’t want to find out a few months later on a cold December morning that your heating system doesn’t work properly, or vice-versa when the sun is beating down and you are on the verge of a heatstroke. As you test out the temperature systems, you can multi-task to complete the next area of inspection, the electronics.
9. Evaluate the electronics
While you’re sitting in the driver seat, check the radio reception on both AM and FM, as well as loading and ejecting a CD (if you have one). Nowadays most use an Auxiliary port or Bluetooth connection, if so be sure to evaluate those as well. Don’t be afraid to turn up the volume as well to see how the sound system plays your favorite tunes.
After assessing the audio functions, take the time to test the other electronics in the car: the turn signals, emergency lights, low-beams, high-beams, fog lights, reverse light, and brake lights. Switch them on one by one and check the exterior of the car to ensure they are functioning properly. This step is easier if you bring a friend along, but can be done solo if absolutely necessary.
10. Take it for a test drive!
Now that you have confirmed the car is in good working condition, it’s time to take it to the road to test the deceleration, acceleration, and turning capabilities. This information is crucial before making any final decision. Usually the seller will accompany you during this part to help answer any questions and ease their concerns that you will take off with the car and never come back.
Before reaching 30 mph, give the brakes a few slight taps to test the sensitivity and functionality. You shouldn’t hear any significant noises or feel any vibrations. If the brakes grip and then let go, the car may need the rotors resurfaced or even new pads.
During the acceleration phase, you will able to test out those tires that you verified were in good condition. Any signs of shaking may be the result of bad tires, or possibly the suspension and steering units. Be sure to take a 90-degree turn at a low speed to confirm a smooth action. Any shaking or loud noises should immediately alarm you.
Finally, just think of your daily driving routine and back test the functions that you will find yourself using day in and day out. You will be spending a lot of time driving this car and spending a decent amount of money, so you want to make sure you are 110% happy with your purchase and feel safe driving around town. Once you have scrutinized every aspect of the vehicle, don’t forget to check the vehicle history for any negative remarks via CarFax for free! Now that you are absolutely certain that this used car is THE ONE, use your expert negotiation skills to get the best deal possible and you’ll be cruising the road in no-time!